A newly planted tree is prone to bending or falling over due to wind, earth movement or human activities. To prevent damage on newly installed large trees, proper staking is essential for the trunk and roots to develop strength.
Staking requirements vary depending on the size and type of tree. If it's a small tree, you can use bamboo stakes and tree guards to get it done, but large trees require a more sturdy yet economical option to keep them standing throughout their first year.
Here's a complete guide on how to stake large trees for durable, long-lasting support.
Not every large tree needs staking. According to the Royal Horticultural Society, trees that can support themselves should be left unstaked, since unnecessary staking can weaken trunk development.
Your tree likely needs staking if:
Try the hand flex test before you start: hold the trunk at progressively lower points until you find the height where the top stays upright on its own. That flex point is roughly where your ties should go.
If the trunk stands firm without support and the root ball doesn't move, skip the stakes. An unstaked tree develops a stronger trunk and root system faster than a staked one.
Before you begin, gather these landscape supplies to ensure your tree staking is done properly:
The quality of your stakes matters significantly when supporting large trees. For trees up to 2.5 metres tall, these 1500mm hardwood stakes provide excellent stability without excessive cost, particularly for suburban plantings where soil conditions are generally favourable.
For taller specimens or exposed sites with strong winds, the 1800mm hardwood stakes offer the extra height needed to support the trunk at the optimal point without interfering with lower branches. Browse our full range of hardwood stakes to find the right size for your project.
Avoid using wire, nylon rope or bare string against the bark. These materials cut into the trunk as the tree grows and can girdle the cambium layer. Flexible jute webbing or broad fabric straps distribute pressure evenly and are the recommended tie material for long-lasting staking systems.
Step 1: Assess Your Tree and Site Conditions
Before driving any stakes, examine your tree's height, trunk diameter and the prevailing wind direction. Check the soil type as well, since sandy or loose soils require deeper stake placement than clay-based ground.
Measure the tree's height from ground level to the lowest branches. Your stakes should reach approximately two-thirds of this height to provide adequate support without restricting natural movement.
Step 2: Install the Hardwood Stakes into the Ground
Position your stakes opposite each other, placing the newly planted tree directly in the middle. The stakes should be located approximately 30-45cm away from the trunk to avoid damaging the root ball.
Use a post rammer or sledgehammer to drive the stakes at least 40-60cm deep into the ground. The deeper penetration ensures stability during strong winds and prevents the entire system from loosening over time.
Check that both stakes are vertical using a spirit level. Uneven stakes will create unbalanced tension that can actually harm the tree rather than support it.
For very large trees over 3 metres tall or in highly exposed sites, consider a three-stake system arranged in a triangle around the trunk. This provides more balanced support against wind from any direction and is standard practice for council and commercial large tree installations.
Step 3: Secure the Tree with Jute Webbing
Wrap the jute webbing around the trunk at about two-thirds of the tree's height. Thread the webbing through to form a figure-eight pattern between each stake and the trunk, which prevents the bark from rubbing directly against the tie material.
Use a tackler gun to secure the webbing firmly to each stake. The ties should be snug but not tight. Allow approximately 2-3cm of movement so the tree can flex naturally in the wind and develop trunk strength.
Cut off any excess webbing to prevent it from tangling or becoming a hazard. Trim the stakes if they extend too far above the tie point, as protruding stakes can be dangerous and unsightly.
Australian conditions present specific challenges for tree staking that overseas guides rarely cover.
Soil types: Much of suburban Australia sits on heavy clay that holds moisture and can become waterlogged in winter. In clay soils, stakes need less depth (30-40cm is often sufficient) but wider spacing to avoid compressing waterlogged ground around the root ball.
Sandy coastal soils require the opposite: deeper stake placement (60cm or more) to compensate for reduced grip. According to the International Society of Arboriculture, matching stake depth to soil conditions is one of the most critical factors in staking success.
Wind exposure: Coastal plantings in areas like Sydney's Northern Beaches or exposed rural sites face consistent wind loads that inland suburban gardens do not. Orient your two-stake system perpendicular to the prevailing wind direction so the ties absorb the force rather than letting the tree lean between the stakes.
Native species: Many Australian natives, including eucalypts and melaleucas, develop lignotubers or unusually flexible trunks as juveniles. These species often need staking for a shorter period (six to eight months rather than twelve) since over-staking prevents their natural trunk-strengthening response. If you are planting eucalypt trees, check the trunk flex monthly and remove stakes as soon as the tree holds itself upright.
Staking alone doesn't guarantee your tree's survival during its establishment period. Young trees face multiple threats that require additional protection measures.
Animal damage from possums, wallabies and rabbits can destroy months of growth in a single night. These large metal mesh guards create a sturdy barrier around the trunk that animals can't penetrate or knock over, while still allowing airflow and light to reach the bark. Read more about how to use tree guards effectively alongside your staking system.
Consider these additional protection strategies:
For medium-sized native trees or ornamental species, the medium metal mesh guards in bulk packs offer cost-effective protection for multiple plantings, making them ideal for revegetation projects or establishing small groves.
Many well-intentioned tree planters make errors that can actually harm their trees. Recognising these mistakes helps ensure your efforts produce the desired results.
Over-tightening the ties: Trees need some movement to develop strong trunks. Ties that prevent all movement create weak, dependent trees that may fail when stakes are removed.
Staking too high: Ties placed too close to the canopy restrict natural swaying and can damage branches. The optimal tie point is approximately two-thirds up the trunk height.
Using inadequate stakes: Thin or short stakes will bend or break during storms, potentially damaging the tree they're meant to protect. Always choose stakes that are proportionate to the tree size. Check what wooden stakes are used for to match the right stake to your application.
Leaving stakes in too long: Stakes left beyond their useful period can girdle the trunk as the tree grows, cutting off nutrient flow and eventually killing the tree.
Single-stake systems for large trees: While single stakes work for small saplings, large trees require the balanced support of a two-stake system to prevent leaning and develop symmetrical root systems.
Using wire or string against bark: Hard tie materials dig into the bark, causing wounds that invite disease and pests. Always use broad, flexible materials like jute webbing.
Garden stakes are intended to temporarily support young trees during establishment. Once trees develop strong trunks and roots, they no longer need external support and should stand independently.
Stakes are typically removed after eight to twelve months, though the exact timing depends on several factors. Check your tree's stability by gently pushing the trunk. If it returns to vertical position without assistance, the root system has likely developed sufficient anchorage.
Remove stakes earlier if you notice any of these signs:
Remove stakes during calm weather to assess the tree's natural stability. Cut the webbing and carefully extract the stakes, filling any resulting holes with soil to prevent water pooling or pest harbourage. For tips on removing stakes without damaging roots, see our guide on how to get wooden stakes out of the ground.
Proper staking is just one component of successful tree establishment. The first two years after planting are critical for developing a healthy, resilient tree that will thrive for decades.
Monitor your tree regularly during this establishment period. Look for signs of stress such as leaf discolouration, wilting, or unusual leaf drop that might indicate watering issues or pest problems.
Adjust your maintenance routine seasonally. Summer requires more frequent watering, while winter demands vigilance against fungal issues in poorly drained soils.
Keep detailed records of planting dates, stake removal timing and any issues encountered. This information becomes invaluable when planting additional trees or troubleshooting problems.
Staking your newly installed tree allows its root system to establish properly while the above-ground portions develop strength. If you need supplies for your tree installation, All Stake Supply is the answer.
As one of the largest distributors of landscape supplies in Sydney, our range of landscaping solutions includes erosion control products, greenkeeping materials, revegetation supplies, arboriculture equipment and more.
If you need help finding the landscape supplies you need, call our friendly staff on 1300 130 123.
When should you stake a tree?
Stake a tree immediately after planting if the root ball moves when you push the trunk, if the planting site is exposed to strong winds, or if the tree has a top-heavy canopy relative to its root system. Trees that stand firm on their own do not need staking.
How long do you leave tree stakes in?
Most trees need stakes for eight to twelve months. Check stability regularly by gently pushing the trunk. Once the tree returns to vertical on its own, the root system has anchored sufficiently and the stakes should come out. Leaving them longer risks girdling the trunk.
How many stakes does a large tree need?
Large trees typically need two stakes positioned opposite each other, perpendicular to the prevailing wind. Very large trees over 3 metres tall or those in highly exposed locations may benefit from a three-stake triangle system for balanced support from all directions.
How do you stake a leaning tree already in the ground?
Drive two stakes on the side the tree leans away from and gently straighten the trunk using broad jute webbing ties. Do not force a severely leaning tree upright in one go. Gradually tighten the ties over several weeks to allow the roots to adjust without tearing.
What is the best tie material for staking trees?
Jute webbing and broad fabric tree straps are the best options. They distribute pressure across the bark and biodegrade naturally over time. Avoid wire, nylon string, garden hose sections and cable ties, all of which can cut into bark and restrict growth.
How often should I check and adjust tree stakes?
Check your staking system at least once a month. Look for ties cutting into bark, stakes loosening in the soil, and webbing that has stretched or frayed. Adjust tie tension as the trunk thickens and replace worn ties promptly.
How tall should tree stakes be?
Stakes should reach approximately two-thirds of the tree's height from ground level. Stakes that are too short provide inadequate support, while stakes that reach into the canopy restrict branch movement and can cause damage during wind.
